With Spring the symbol of rebirth, Milan’s fashion power houses took this opportunity to remind that persistence and optimism are a sight to behold as they look towards the next year even while Covid19 has reshaped the global landscape
It was about six months ago that Italy became the epicentre of rising coronavirus cases that slowly spread around the global becoming the worst pandemic known in modern times. One of the worst hit parts of the country was Milan itself where the Fall Winter edition of the Milan Fashion Week was in full swing. As cases increased around the country several shows were either cancelled or presented without an audience.
However, after a long wait, the fashion hub of the world was once again filled with the smell of fresh couture as the sounds of models strutting down the runway returned to Milan but downsized.The Spring Summer 2021 edition was held under a hybrid format which meant designers had the option to either release pre-recorded fashion films or to display their collections in scaled-down fashion shows with zero to a limited audience.
The strenuous task of bringing fashion back has without a doubt proved fruitful as fashion powerhouses such as Versace, Fendi and Armani presented some of their most inspired work yet while Boss celebrated its 20th anniversary and Dolce and Gabbana revisited its patchwork collection in front of a live audience.
Given the travel restrictions many supermodels such as Bella Hadid, Kaia Gerber, Kendall Jenner, Emily Ratajkowksi and Naomi Campbell weren’t able to walk at the fashion week but the runway was slayed equally by the likes of ImaanHammam, Rianne Rompaey, Mona Touggard, Sacha Quenby, Maike Inga and Abby Champion who were joined by the likes of Joan Smalls, Irina Shayk and Ashley Graham.
Out of the many brands that showcased their collection for the coming summers, we have listed down our favourites below:
Versace
Versace is a powerhouse in the world of fashion and luxury and Donatella doesn’t let go any chance putting up a spectacle for each of the brand’s fashion shows. While last year the brand had Jennifer Lopez sashay down in the infamous jungle dress, thistime the brand went a notch higher or rather ‘down under.’
Taking fashion fanatics for an aquatic journey with her ‘under the sea’- inspired collection, Donatella paid homage to her late brother Gianni by recreating some of his more iconic designs from the brand’s 1993 Trésor de la Mer collection.
The collection as largely vibrant featuring outfits decked up with shells and starfish motifs, crystal-encrusted bra tops and blinged-out embellishments as models walked on a sand-covered, dimly-lit runway lined with broken-down Roman pillars. The fashion show also for the first time ever featured three plus-size models Jill Kortleve, Alva Claire, and Precious Le.
Boss
Celebrating its 20 years in womenswear, Boss returned to the Palazoo De Senato in Milan the very same venue where it debuted its first ever women’s apparel line. The brand was also one of the very few that decided to go forward with a live audience show as it presented in front a small yet socially distanced crowd.
Casualization as Ingo Wilts, the chief brand officer of Boss said was at the heart of the collection as the brand derived inspiration from the work-from-home culture and the laid-back fashion preference that gained prominence during lockdown. He also called the collection their most casual to date with slouchy separates and a calm yet lush colour palette such as ice blue to forest green, mint, nude, fuchsia and fresh white.
While causal wear remained in focus the brand also stayed true to their signature tailored suiting in camel and pale hues with elegant shoulders. The show also marked the return of model Irina Shayk on the runway while the rumoured girlfriend of actor Brad Pitt Nicole Poturulski was spotted in a statement knit dress.
Alberta Ferretti
Staged in the open air courtyard of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, with guests seated at a safe distance on a warm and sunny afternoon as the same relaxed feel echoed in the collection resonating withAlberta Ferretti’s signature romantic style than the brands more recent outings.
The collection that embraced seductive softness stemming from the acceptance of the natural power of femininity was a visual delight as tie-dyed, monotone and romantically sewndresses especially the final three pieces worn by models Abby Champion, Mona Touggard and Rianne Rompaey.
The fashion house also derived inspiration for the Spring Summer outing from the concept of practicality as the show featured a more wearable and approachable styling keeping in mind the sort of laid-back style many have adapted to during the lockdowns such as pastel denim, high-waist, tight pants were paired with lingerie-inspired tops.
Dolce and Gabbana
While gloomy clouds still roam over Milan, Dolce and Gabbana decided to set the tone for the next Spring with their colourful patchwork collection. The fashion powerhouse showcased their collection in front a live audience following the tune of its bespoke shows in earlier in July when the brand went ahead with a physical runway show, highlighting the message that a runway cannot be replaced by something on a screen.
Titled the ‘Patchwork of Sicily’ the 90-piece collection remembered a 1993 show in which they used similar patch working methods. While the 90s’ collection followed a 70s’ bohemian theme, the present collection was more modern.
The brand also kept resourcefulness and repurposing at heart when designing as they recreated several items from the previous collection in contemporary cuts such as hourglass dresses and sharply cut jackets while their signature silhouettes such as cotton, brocade, chiffon and georgette could also be traced.
Etro
While heading off to a beach at the moment may not be the best idea, Etro’sSpring 2021 collection definitely made up for that aching as beachy outfits and aquatic prints made for the brand’s display.
Boasting on an undeniable 60s vibe that imagined fashion icons of the time such as Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor at an Italian beach in the summers, the collection featured playful aquatic prints as the lead designer Veronica Etro admitted her source of inspiration for the collection was the 60s’ era.
The collection featured triangle bikini and bandeau tops, paired with everything from tailored shorts and pristine white trousers to skirts while the outfits were styled with big straw hats, chokers and gladiator sandals — all of which will be highly desired come the next summer.
Giorgio Armani
“I hope that fashion will now review its priorities, learning from this experience,” wrote Armani while describing how he sees the industry should move on following the pandemic. Being a veteran and undoubtedly a treasure in fashion he also opined that the industry itself had been due for a reckoning for a while now.
As for the Spring Summer collection, Armani once again proved that subtle elegance and clean cuts are the only features that make for a stellar collection given the right colour palette and designs. With fluid matching separates and eveningwear that sparkled set ina monotonetheme which felt universal—like a canvas for application.
Meanwhile, suits which have since forever been an integral part of the brand dominated the collection from the very first look with single breasted blazers worn over ankle-length pants. Similarly, the daywear outfits were soft and crinkled with a more relaxed tailoring. Once again adopting from quarantine, Armani also included slouchy PJ like silhouettes as the fashion house maintained style and timelessness over fashion and trends.
With the Milan Fashion Week bringing back hope for physical fashion shows even during the current pandemic-struck world, it is yet to be seen when the local Pakistani fashion scene will return to fashion weeks.
