When it comes to skin, there are experts—and then there’s Nilam Holmes. Renowned as the go-to aesthetician for A-list royalty, red carpet regulars, and global beauty insiders, Nilam has spent over three decades mastering the science behind flawless complexions. As the founder of the luxury skin clinic Dermaspa and a trusted name in high-performance treatments, she’s built a reputation not just on results, but on revolutionizing the way we treat skin concerns. In this exclusive conversa- tion with Grazia’s International Beauty Editor, Kaniz Ali, Nilam shares her expert insight into treating dark spots, mel- asma, and uneven tone, revealing the powerhouse treatments and products that truly work.
Kaniz: What is pigmentation and uneven skin tones ?
Nilam: At my clinic, Dermaspa, one of the most frequent concerns I hear from clients is: “How do I get rid of these dark spots and uneven patches on my skin?” It’s a question I’ve been asked countless times over my 33-year career, and one I love answering— because there are effective solutions. Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition that presents as darkened areas due to an overproduction of melanin. While harmless, it can leave many people feeling self-conscious, especially when it disrupts an otherwise healthy complexion. The good news? With the right approach—both at home and in-clinic—pigmentation can be dramatically reduced, and in many cases, fully reversed.
Kaniz: What is Hyperpigmentation? Nilam: There are three main types of pigmentation I regularly treat:
1. Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation
This type affects almost everyone over time. Prolonged UV exposure leads to what we often call “sun spots” or “age spots.” I always remind my clients— babies aren’t born with freckles. As charming as they may seem, freckles are actually signs of sun damage.
2. Melasma
Almost exclusive to women, melasma is triggered by hormonal fluctuations— whether from pregnancy, menopause, or contraception. It usually appears
as symmetrical patches on the face and often has a genetic link. The key to treating melasma is identifying and managing its hormonal triggers.
3. Post-Inflammatory
Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH occurs after inflammation or trauma to the skin, such as acne, and is especially prevalent in darker skin tones. I see it most commonly around sensitive areas like the eyes and mouth, where the skin is thinner and more prone to long-lasting marks.
Kaniz: How do you reduce hyperpigmentation ?
Nilam: Sun spots are typically the easiest to treat, while melasma and PIH require more patience and precision. After decades of hands-on experience and working with countless devices and formulations, I’ve refined an approach that combines clinical expertise with powerful at-home care.
Kaniz: What are the at-home skincare essentials ?
Nilam: The right ingredients, used consistently, can transform your skin. I always recommend incorporating the following into your daily routine:
• Vitamin C: Brightens skin and inhibits excess melanin production.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Reduces inflammation and fades dark spots.
• Azelaic Acid: Particularly effective for PIH and sensitive skin types.
• Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives): Speed up cell turnover to fade existing pigmentation.
• Hydroquinone: A potent brightener, best used under professional supervision.
Kaniz: What are the advanced in-clinic treatments ?
Nilam: Topical skincare is powerful, but
professional treatments can fast-track your results. It’s essential that your practitioner tailors treatment to your unique skin tone and pigmentation type.
• Chemical Peels: Glycolic, salicylic, and TCA peels exfoliate the skin and encourage fresh cell turnover. Safe for most skin types with minimal downtime. • Laser & IPL Treatments: For lighter to medium skin tones, I favour Lumecca IPL, which uses broad-spectrum light to break up sun spots. For darker skin, IPL isn’t ideal—so I use the Alma Harmony ClearLift, which delivers acoustic shockwaves and light to safely fragment pigmentation into particles your body can naturally clear.
• Plasma & Radiofrequency Devices: Devices like the AgeJet Plasma and BTL Exion Clear are ideal alternatives to lasers for darker skin. They create gentle micro-wounds under the surface, stimulating collagen and disrupting pigmentation safely and effectively.
• Microneedling: The SkinPen device creates tiny, controlled punctures in the skin, triggering collagen production and gradually evening out skin tone. It’s safe for even the deepest skin tones.
Kaniz: What is the golden rule ?
Nilam: When it comes to pigmentation, prevention truly is better—and far less expensive—than the cure. Daily sun protection is non-negotiable, regardless of your skin tone. A broad-spectrum SPF is your best defense against recurring pigmentation and preserving the results of your treatments.
